Cars are tethered to a central spindle and pole and race round a banked track at high speeds.This quality-made Ohlsson & Rice tether car is in very good condition (look at my images for the very best description). The sport of tether car racing was hugely popular in the middle of the 20th century with a growing interest today. Marked, Manufactured by Ohlsson & Rice Inc. There are no apparent damage, cracks or repairs anywhere on it. Brake handle, Molded Pipe Exhaust, Windshield and # 34 decals on cream body are all intact and original. Rubber is good and not dry rotted, marked O&H. The tires and wheels are in good shape and original.
The first models had solid rear brake drums, 10 air vent slots in the seat, open air front grill, external hand brake lever, windshield, manual fuel pump, 4 nerf bars or radius rods, and plated front axle.Ī tether car made by Ohlsson & Rice Inc., Los Angeles, Calif. Ohlsson and Rice tether cars were first made in 1946.
My biggest problems will be getting replacements for the prop driver and washer, parts like that just don't seem to be being reproduced yet, and also, if it is the early version with a rubber gasket between head and cylinder, and it's leaking, it's virtually impossible to replace due to the staked together head and cylinder.Mouse over image to Zoom. Water Pump, Engine Type 217 Mini Twelve Chain Saw, Type 254 Engine, Type 183 Mustang Chain Saw, Type 185 Amp Champ Model 4, engine Type 122 Durby. I can get a new contact breaker assembly for about 5 times what I paid for the engine, but at least they ARE available! There is certainly no need to go back to the rear inlet setup to run it as a spark ignition. Enjoy the hunt.Īs far as my reading so far goes, the front rotary setup was at first a factory "aftermarket accessory" in that you bought a kit of the altered crankshaft and the front section of the crankcase, plugged the rear inlet and replaced the contact breaker assembly on the new front end (see photo) Wheter the internal porting would match, I haven't a clue.ĭon't let me disparage your quest for the correct parts. You'll also need a "sparker" crankshaft as a front rotary uses a different crank. If you intend to convert it back to spark you'll need to ditch the front rotary and go back to the rear intake system. It appears the the engine shown has had front rotary attached and is therefore incorrect for a "sparker".
They changed the recoil to that style in the 70s. Advanced engine Products did make different equipment using these engines so I do believe yours would be a later model Ohlsson and Rice engine. Check out website Let me know what you need and how we can help. 23 front rotary which was a new concept for the time replacing the rear intake used previously. Im told the chainsaw and geneartor are from the early 60s and the pump is from late 60s to early 70s. Just purchased a Dealers inventory of Chicken Power Bicycle Engine Parts. My first model aircraft engine was a new circa 1952 O&R. Yes, thanks Puffie, that's a good idea about trying it out as a glow, one thing that is worrying is whether it has the early rubber seal between the head and the cylinder, I read that they are prone to leaks, and are nearly impossible to repair because of the "staked" head/cylinder, I just hope it's the later alloy one on this, just have to wait and see! Good tip about removing the piston, and thanks for the detail about the piston baffle position, I'd have been sure to put it back the wrong way round! Spark coils are all the same, but if you want to throw this on a plane, you could look at spark coils for chainsaws, as they are pretty compact. might be a way to try it out while you are looking for ignition parts. The only difference I can see between the O&R spark and glow models is a plastic spacer where the points went and a glowplug on top. the piston has a deflector bar on it, and the narrow end need to point towards the intake, or AWAY from the exhaust. to remove the piston, twist the piston 90 degrees and pull it out from the bottom. they were spot welded together during manufacture so they cannot be taken apart. Puffie40 wrote:I can give you a little bit of advice, as I have dismantled our O&R 29 a couple of times: